In Vogue: A Black History Month Special

In 2017, Vogue UK appointed its first Black editor-in-chief, Ghanaian-born Edward Ennifulm, responsible for modernising and bringing greater diversity to the publication. Under his leadership, Vogue portrayed a transgender woman on its cover for the first time and has featured disabled models.

Enniful's replacement, Chioma Nnadi, was born in London to a Swiss-German mother and Nigerian father and uses the title Head of Editorial Content for her role leading Vogue UK. I've picked out five lessons we can learn from Vogue UK's Head of Editorial Content.

1. Find preloved gems

Nnadi advocates for a more environmentally-friendly and ethical approach to fashion, with greater circularity and taking pride in vintage over fast fashion. She loves shopping second hand, mixing old and new in an outfit and finding vintage gems on the Portabello Road and online at sites like Relliked. In an article in the Courier, Nnadi said that if she's buying new, she ensures it's from sustainable, ethical brands with values she endorses. 

2. Embrace the tools of the digital age

Chioma Nnadi has seized on the the challenges and opportunities of social media, with its power to tell stories and engage with a younger audience. 

3. Be authentic

In an interview for Africa Fashion International, Nnadi's message to fashion designers was to embrace authenticity. We may not be fashion editors or designers ourselves, but we can all take courage to be true to ourselves, whether it's through the styles and colours that reflect our personalities or the consumer choices we make in keeping with our values.

4. Celebrate diversity

Inclusivity and a celebration of diversity for Chioma Nnadi are perennially in vogue. Through Vogue, Nnadi has been able to offer more prominence to underrepresented voices in the fashion world, for example speaking out against the industry's reliance on ultra-thin models.  She's happy to be a figurehead and role model for other Black and biracial individuals, reported in a BBC News article as saying, 'I know how meaningful it is for younger people to see people like me, who look like me, in a position like this.'

5. Wear colour

In an interview for the Telegraph, Nnadi urged people to play with colour and colour combinations, saying, "It doesn’t matter what brands you are wearing, if you put interesting colours together you will always make a statement. My only rule is that I rarely wear all black." She goes on to suggest we rethink neutrals to include metallics, so there's no need to save gold and silver for the festive season!

The Only Way is Ethics

An article in Good on You states, 'The modern fashion industry is built on racist and colonial systems that harm Black people across the globe'. This can be seen where fast-fashion brands seek ever-lower costs to themselves and consumers by outsourcing production to low and middle-income countries. It can be seen where cotton pickers and factory workers are exploited, paid below a living wage and with a disregard towards their safety. It can be seen where brands hide behind the international complexities of the fashion industry and deny consumers transparency. 

So at the risk of this being tokenistic, for Black History Month I wanted to share Black-owned ethical, sustainable clothing and accessory brands, which are either based in or can be purchased from the UK.

Studio One Eighty Nine

This brand and social project creates African and African-inspired clothing. Manufactured in Accra, Ghana, Studio 189 works with artisan communities showcasing traditional techniques from plant-based dyeing to hand-batik and kente weaving. Follow @studiooneeightynine on Instagram.

We Are Kin

Founded by Ngoni Chikwengere, the clothing range is handmade in London. Designed to be timeless rather than fashion-led, the brand also takes direct action to avoid waste and provides a collection of inclusive sizes. They use many end-of-line and sustainable fabrics, and run workshops to teach sewing and pattern-cutting skills.

Aaks

As my old hashtag says, 'everything looks better with a bag' and Aaks sell some beautiful ones. Their bags are handcrafted in Ghana, often using traditional artisan weaving techniques. Creating colourful investment pieces, the brand prides itself on supporting local economies. Follow @a.a.k.s on Instagram.

Sika

The Sika range is designed in London and made in Ghana. As it states on their website, their ethical approach means 'paying fair wages, creating employment and making a meaningful difference within the Ghanaian community'. They've also collaborated with major players in the industry such as ASOS. Sika produces some stunning, stand-out pieces with both a women's and men's range. Follow @sika on Instagram.

Kemi Telford

From my earliest days of following other women posting their daily outfits on Instagram, I discovered and admired Kemi Telford designs. The size-inclusive range of timeless pieces was founded by Nigerian-born Yvonne Modupe Telford and is based in England. As Yvonne writes, 'We offer women pieces that speak before they do. We encourage women to take up space through shape and colour and to express their whole selves unapologetically.' Follow @kemitelford on Instagram.

These few brands may not be in everyone's price range, but could make thoughtful, beautiful and ethical investment pieces. Even if you don't buy from them, why not give them a follow on their social media channels and read more about their ethos on their websites (see links below)?

Studio 189

We Are Kin

Aaks

Sika

Kemi Telford

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